本文转自隅阁版型屋购买LOEWE罗意威Gate手袋牛皮纸图纸http://www.exiaodian.com/go/254
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制作流程轻度讲解:一、侧幅1、粗裁外皮先与皮糠纸贴合后再精裁(此处可以尝试用BOX皮或者塔林纸做托料)
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2、精裁后如图坡削(若使用1.5厚皮革外圈也可适当削薄)
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3、绒布(里料)按版型粗裁后,与上图中备好的侧幅贴合再精裁
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4、将侧幅可单独上边油的地方先上好边油
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二、前幅1、将前幅皮料、皮糠纸、里布粗裁粘合后再精裁,裁下后按照版型打好斩孔,四周上边油(前)
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(背)
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三、前后侧幅衔接1、衔接处两头坡削,坡削宽度不要超过搭位限定线
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2、按版型搭位位置对位粘合
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3、将斩孔全部打好
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4、如图缝合
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四、前侧幅与前幅缝合1、前侧幅与前幅缝合,按照版型的孔位缝合即可,无需上胶
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五、绑带+后插袋1、绑带缝线起止如图所示(定位斩孔为版型上圆圈框住的孔位)PS:肩带做法按照“肩带参考版”做即可
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2、此处绑带需按照版型打斩孔,留做后用
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3、后插袋,粗裁皮+里料,然后精裁,斩孔按照版型打好
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4、后幅与绑带缝合,此处均为单独油边。缝线对位请参考版型上圆圈框柱的斩位
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5、缝完如图所示
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六、盖头(后幅连盖)1、盖头与盖头拼接件缝合(此处不贴底料)
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2、粗裁底料,粘合后再精裁
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3、如图缝线
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4、如图将盖头拼接件与后侧幅缝合
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5、将后插袋贴合后,缝完盖头整圈线即可
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七、中隔层拉链袋(20的此处为插袋,注意区分)1、里料与皮糠纸粘合精裁
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2、再单独精裁出两个里料
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3、按照版型上拉链定位线做拉链
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4、如图顺序粘合
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5、缝合袋口
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6、左右两边用刀模冲孔,缝合(此处是直接将两层冲穿,然后两层一起缝合)
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八、盖(后幅连盖)+前幅1、如图缝合
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2、笔杆绑皮如图按照版型打斩(前后均如此)
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九、整体缝合1、前中后缝合后,封边
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2、按照之前绑带定下的孔,将结拉紧到最合适的位置(自行把控),按孔缝合
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十、成品
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罗意威