作者:有熊,微博:https://weibo.com/u/2788148754
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这款包外皮用的是意大利黑色植鞣革,内皮的皮料是法国Alran的波尔多酒红色山羊皮
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把皮料根据图纸版型裁下来,山羊皮可以直接在版型边缘用刀直接裁。
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先把两个装饰条的一条边压上装饰线,和封边。压装饰线和封边的过程在以前的贴子有写过很多次。装饰条的肉面画好定位线备用。
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包身外皮的肉面四周,用801进行斜削。两头的皮面部位先用间距规划定位线,用美工刀或者砂纸定位线内打磨刮毛,这样涂胶水后才能更牢固。
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把装饰皮的肉面和之前包身外皮刮毛的部位涂上胶水,然后装饰皮根据画的定位线和包身贴合。在装饰线的内侧打斩并且缝合。缝合完毕后把装饰皮的余量裁掉。
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裁掉余量后稍加打磨,画上装饰线并打上斩孔备用。
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包底部位两侧画上装饰线并封边。包身外皮底部画定位线然后用美工刀刮毛,然后和包底皮的肉面都涂上胶水,根据定位线紧紧贴合好。沿着装饰线的内侧打斩并缝合。
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制作包内部的卡位。根据图纸在皮面上打好一字斩的孔位,然后在皮料的反面依次把里布贴好。贴好里后把卡位的背皮涂上胶水贴死。根据图纸版型把四周的余量裁掉。并画上装饰线,打斩缝合。然后涂边油再用烫边机烫平。
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内皮的四周用801削薄。把卡位根据定位贴在内皮上,然后在打斩缝合。
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拉链取合适的长度,钳掉多余的齿,安装上下止。尾部和拉链尾皮缝合,把拉链的拉片做好并安装拉链头上。
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拉链位内皮画定位线,然后折边。
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拉链外皮画装饰线封边后和内皮根据定位贴在拉链上,沿着装饰线内侧打斩缝合,把两头的余量裁掉。
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贴边的内外皮四周削薄,涂上胶水弯贴。上方裁掉余量后压装饰线缝合封边。
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内外皮边缘画上定位线并涂上胶水,后根据定位线贴好。之后把边缘的余量裁掉。
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侧边皮和包身的两边分别打好斩孔,需要粘合的部位用刀刮毛。先把一侧的侧边与包身贴合后缝合。然后再把另一侧也这么处理。用刀把余量裁掉,砂纸打磨封边。
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拉链皮两侧画定位线,在定位线上打斩,斩孔数应与包身相同。贴合部位用刀刮毛,贴死后缝合。在用刀把余量裁掉,砂纸打磨封边。整个包就完成了。
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附上成品图
手包