一个非常详细拉链长钱夹制作教程,款型是比较经典的式样,多卡位,大钞位一应俱全,而且使用的是羊皮,有着细腻的手感。制作材料:意大利matt羊皮 5-6sf作者:半吊岩鱼(微博https://weibo.com/u/6395570349)下料1、内皮皮料:按准确尺寸下料日本纸:定型,用内皮纸板比照下料,大小为内皮上边缘到外卡位底边,见图背胶尼龙:两个外卡位中间长夹弯位补强,下料可略长一些
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2、卡位上卡位、中卡位:各2,上边缘留出折边余量,左右两边留出血位下卡位:需对折,宽度长于准确尺寸的两倍宽度,四边均留出血位背胶尼龙:每个卡位配一块背胶尼龙补强,下料略大于卡位,一长边直线切齐
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3、风琴褶&拉链袋风琴褶:小风琴1片、大风琴2片,皮料对贴后下料拉链袋:内、外皮各一,留出左右出血位,外皮上下留出折边余量
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4、外皮大面:按照尺寸下料皮糠纸:按照大面尺寸下料内层对贴皮:比大面尺寸略大下料制作1、内皮大面内皮大面皮料背面按下卡位下边缘位置做出标记,两条标记线中间贴背胶尼龙补强,内皮大面皮料背面沿边缘贴日本纸定型
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2、卡位上中卡位四边削薄,使边缘在折边或与内里大面缝合后过渡自然
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上卡位和中卡位背面画出折边线,背胶尼龙切齐的直边沿折边线贴好,涂胶折边,压牢
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沿皮料边缘切掉多余背胶尼龙
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下卡位画出对折中线,背胶尼龙沿中线贴好,对折压牢,把背胶尼龙夹在中间
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下卡位根据准确版型切掉下边缘多出的余量,两边的出血位暂不要动
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做好6个卡位
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6个卡位上边缘烫装饰线
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内皮上画出卡位上下边缘安装标记线,上卡位对齐标记线贴在大面上,贴好的上卡位下边缘打斩缝线
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同样安装好6个卡位(下卡位下缘先上好边油)
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根据准确版型切掉多余出血位
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卡位中心线划竖线,打斩缝线
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完成!3、拉链袋拉链剪合适长度,拔下多余齿,安装上止,留出安装下止空间,打火机稍微烫一下布边注意如果是单向拉链的话不要安装错边
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拉链袋外皮上下边缘削薄,画出折边线,折边压牢
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拉链居中贴在外皮上下边缘,注意外皮对折后拉链能对齐拉合
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内皮上下边缘上边油,对贴在外皮背面,上下边缘对齐,把拉链布夹在中间
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外皮上下边缘烫装饰线
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按照拉链袋准确尺寸精裁左右两边
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上下边缘打斩缝线,左右打斩
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4、风琴褶上下边缘上边油,小风琴褶两侧单面削薄,大风琴褶与拉链袋贴合的边缘单面削薄,边缘打好斩孔
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拉链袋对折,安装下止的一边中间贴小风琴褶,外侧贴大风琴褶,分别缝线
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另一边外侧贴合大风琴褶
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上拉头,安装拉链下止
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安装拉链下止的一端内侧边缘涂胶贴合,缝线
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拉链袋两侧上边油
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内皮边缘打斩
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大风琴褶与内皮大面边缘贴合,风琴褶上边缘与上卡位上边缘对齐
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浅圆冲在内里中间部位冲出凹进的圆弧,为走拉链提供空间
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5、拉链拉链留长一点,可以围一圈,内里的反面用边线器距边缘5mm划线取拉链中心点,与内里反面中心点对齐,长边沿画好的边线贴平整两短边同样贴合好,转角位置先不涂胶
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用锥子沾胶,贴合转角圆弧的拉链布,每次用锥子挑一点点拉链布贴合,尽量平整
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上拉头,注意拉头方向
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剩余拉链贴合在内里弯位外,转角处尽量贴合平整
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6、外皮皮糠纸沿距边缘5mm划线沿线裁切
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将皮糠纸居中贴在外皮上
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外皮沿皮糠纸起鼓塑性
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贴合外皮里层,注意中间部分弯位贴合
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用塑形棒塑形贴牢,四边打好斩孔,压装饰线
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边缘上边油
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7、整体安装对好外皮和内里的斩孔,可用针定位,四边缝合,完成!
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拉链长夹